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NY Fashion Week Wrap-up

September 25, 2009 - 2:53 am
With an air of escapism and that Big Apple attitude we know and love the Spring 2010 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Sept. 10-17) in New York  alighted and delighted the fashion masses.

Here are a handful of designers that knocked us off our proverbial stocking feet:

On his Marc
Marc Jacobs let loose in a flurry of frills and bustles for his Spring show, dismissing the model-off-duty, glam-rock persona fashion has adopted these days and instead called on more refined muses.  He told Nicole Phelps of that “if last season was a trip back in time to the eighties, this was a trip to the theater, the ballet, the opera.” And from Marc’s lips to our fashion eyes, it was true: after-five dresses à la “The King and I,” porcelain-faced models, Ottoman-era slippers and ballet-style chignons, with a dash of American sportswear (silken sports bras, fanny-packs and jogging tights) in the mix as well. Critics left pleased with our North American l’enfant terrible, refreshed by his devil-may-care ‘tude to last season’s dark aura.
Les Miz

A designer who is quite familiar with the ups and downs of the industry, Isaac Mizrahi knows that the show must go on–and does he ever know how to put on a show! He dazzled with his Sept. 17 tent show and Broadway style display complete with rain machine and a winding staircase that even Gene Kelly himself would approve of.  The collection was presented with help from famous model faces, including of-the-moment runway muse Tao Okamoto. Isaac Mizrahi’s Spring cache offered chic patent oxfords in creme, caramel and black; tailored blazers, showman Boater hats and suitcases. This gender-bending show had Big City written all over it. Encore!


Rags to Riches

Distressed leathers, twills and plaid patterns ripped to shreds–California girls Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte brought out the textile talent we’ve come to crave: gorgeous knit stitching, prints and a collage of techniques that are always right on the money. The Mulleavy sisters remind us yet again why they received a 2009 CFDA award their knack for damaging cherished fabrics and combining them in spectacular ways. This Spring, the siblings were darkly inspired by the singed California terrain and Rodarte envisioned a fashion phoenix: a woman scorned by her landscape. She pieces together her burned–yet beautiful–clothes and stomps triumphantly (thanks to equally stripped statement shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood) down the runway. Scarlett O’Hara, eat your heart out.

So Sui Me
Anna Sui shows are always a refreshing change from the dark and brooding model stomps. The recent CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award winner knows how put the fun back in to fashion with happy smiling models, bold prints and patterns. Ringmaster Sui gave a whimsical circus-inspired collection this Spring. A nod to the flower child’s love of the 1960s Pop-era welcomed a variety of playful dresses in equally dallying flower prints, not to mention several bowl haircuts (many models sported faux blunt cut bangs if they didn’t already have them). Sui’s collection was fanciful and free: evidence of a designer flying high on success–and deservingly so!
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