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This month, the editors at Racked.com asked me to show them what a week of my life is like. Seven days and several Instagram posts later and you have the Beauty Diary of Glynnis Mapp: one sweet Valley Nails gel manicure, a touche éclat that does just as good as your YSL and a sure-fire moisturizer to beat back that winter itch.
Hair guru, Damien Carney, has the secrets to some of your top beauty challenges (including one of the biggest: The secret to The Perfect Blowout). He’s the international artistic director for Joicoand has prepped fashion week looks backstage for global catwalks (Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, John Galliano, Pam Hogg and Agent Provocateur to name several) and is a never-ending fountain of knowledge and expertise when it comes to haircare. We could listen to him for hours – literally.
I interview Carney on the trick to saving your tresses from too many blowouts, the secret to surviving in the beauty industry and why Tom Ford is his ultimate beauty muse du jour.
Music, fabrics, art, icons: which of these are inspiring you for the S/S 14 season? Damien Carney: I really take my inspiration from the streets, I walk the streets of New York City and you’ll see people who love to experiment and every trend and style is different in each neighbourhood. Hair is a lot like fabric in fashion – you work with it and manipulate it to get different effects. What’s great about hair is that it’s art that you can play with. Sometimes I’ll create a look on a model and love it and then see what I’ve created and say ‘Oh, what was I thinking!?’ The great things about hair, if you don’t like the colour or you don’t like the style, you can just shampoo and start all over.”
What is the secret to succeeding in the beauty business? Is there one? DC: “The only way to stay ahead of the curve is technology. Making people’s lives easier with a product – a hairbrush, a blowdryer or hairspray. Women today aren’t different than they were 50 years ago. Every woman still wants to have shine, volume … the only way to be revolutionary and really move forward in beauty is to break through using technology and new ingredients. People want to do things quicker and faster. Joico is driven by this idea.”
First experience with beauty? Tell us about a moment or memory. DC: “It was probably the first time I ever got a haircut. My dad took me to the barbershop, I can still remember it to this day. I think I was 5 years old and up to today, it’s still so memorable for me. It was like a club, there was a culture there, it was all about people walking in and getting their hair done and walking out feeling great. I walked out of there with my little side part and it probably had loads of grease in there, but I felt fit as a fiddle. Then it evolved as I got older – I started going to the unisex salon – it was like going from economy to first class. Hair is emotional, most people don’t wake up with perfect hair … we all know when we have a great hair day and when we don’t. Sometimes a little bit of technology, a little bit of primping and a bit of fashion injected into the person that’s wearing can make them feel beautiful and that’s what we as stylists try to do.”
Beauty product (skincare or makeup) you’d never live or leave the house without? DC: “Hair: Joicos’ K-Pak reconstructor puts all of the peptides, all of the natural things your hair is made of back into the hair, it’s honestly one of my favorites. If I was on Mars, I’d also absolutely need a working hairspray,Joico Power Spray Fast-Dry Finishing Spray is amazing. It lasts 72-hours and is patented-pending. Face: I like Cetaphyl. It’s a brilliant cleanser that I love using. I’ve tried a lot of things and what I love about this that it’s a reasonable price, I can get it anywhere–at almost any drugstore– and it’s an extremely gentle cleanser that you can apply straight out of the dispenser. A lot of my friends use it and I got hooked on it.”
Name the beauty campaign or editorial spread (old or new) that’s inspired you the most. DJ: “Anything Tom Ford, really. There’s a certain direct, simple view of beauty that he has that I admire. I particularly love his use of Abbey Lee Kershaw in his campaigns. I like the approach. You flick the page and suddenly there’s a girl, she’s got great lipstick, fabulous hair, it grabs you immediately. I like his model choice, the photography and also his participation in the ads, his being in the campaigns are quite humorous. When you talk about brand identity … whether he’s selling his fragrances or his clothing line … he nails it on the head as far as I’m concerned. It’s always very beautiful.”
Hollywood starlets at the 2013 Emmys looked stunning in couture gowns and shoes but their manicures were the showstoppers on the red carpet.
Michelle Dockery, a nominee for “Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series” for her role as Lady Mary Crawley in Downton Abbey, wore a classic sanguine red lacquer called Lady Is A Tramp on her nails. On her toes: Modern Love, a modern classic mauve hue. Her nails were prepped with Ridge Filler Base Coat to create a perfectly smooth canvas, and completed with Gel Lab Top Coat for a high-shine finish.
Emilia Clarke (nominated for Outstanding Supporting Actress in a Drama Series) as Daenerys Targaryen inGame of Thrones, is wearing Fashion, a perfect taupe crème shade, on both fingers and toes. Her nails were prepped with Turn Back Time Base Coat, and finished with Gel Lab Top Coat for a beautiful high-shine.
Ridge Filler Base Coat and Turn Back Time Back Time Base Coat, $20 each. Lady Is A Tramp, Modern Love and Fashion, $17 each. Gel Lab Top and Base Coat, $45 for pkg of two.
Haircare is an expanding and successful business and few in the industry understand this more than Peter Gray, UK Hair Expert at L’Oréal Paris. During London Fashion Week S/S 14 he whipped up looks backstage. What does it take to stay motivated and above all competitive in the beauty market? Gray talks to Stylesightabout his current obsessions inspirations and the simplet yet effective mottos and mantras that keep him grounded and creative.
Richard Nicoll S/S 14 backstage hair
Music, fabrics, art, icons: which of these are inspiring you for the F/W 14 season? Peter Gray: “Music: I love the band Clear Plastic Masks – they are a true band to watch, I’m predicting they’re going to be the next Oasis. Art: Nick Cave has made these crazy sound suits made out of furry material. He’s a professor at Chicago University and is really inspiring.”
Your motto that has set you on a path to success? PG: “Work until you drop and then get up the next day with a smile.”
What is the secret to succeeding in the beauty business? Is there one? PG: “Every set back is a learning curve and a lesson.”
Nick Cave wearable art
Clear Plastic Bags
Good luck charm (item, person or pet)? PG: “My team at L’Oreal Paris.”
Beauty project you’re most proud of? PG: “Shows we have worked in Japan for independent designers. We are given true creative freedom and the hair we create is always a work of art.”
What is one thing that helps give you an inspirational pick-me-up? PG: “Fitness pages. Also my boxing instructor. In my opinion physical fitness is linked to mental fitness and is so important.”
First experience with beauty? Tell us about a moment or memory. PG: “Going to the hair salon with my mum (which I hated). I refused to have my hair cut anywhere apart from a men’s only barber’s shop and only wanted to go with my grandfather.”
Beauty product (skincare or makeup) you’d never live or leave the house without?
PG: “Lip Balm.”
For Temperley London’s S/S 14 collection at London Fashion Week, Lead Makeup Artist Lisa Eldridge looked to 1970s bombshell Lauren Hutton for inspiration. That supple soft skin that glows from within, high and highlighted cheekbones and eyes that simply sparkle. A face that nature has painted.
Lauren Hotton was the main muse for the overall look but it was the just-bitten rose-y lip of a model that inspired the lipcolor. Eldridge was inspired by catwalker Thea Hudson who Eldridge says arrived for the backstage fitting without makeup and “the most perfect pink lips.”
She had to have them. Eldridge whipped up a color she calls Thea Pink and made it the lipcolor for all of the models that walked at Temperley London’s S/S 14 show.
The look was complimented by a creative plaited chignon created by Malcolm Edwards for L’Oreal Professionnel – a West London-inspired look that looks like the models created it themselves. Put-together but slightly messy – couture undone.
I interviewed makeup artist Lisa Eldridge on the beauty look for S/S 14 for Stylesight:
Holly Fulton’s S/S 14 muses trotted down London’s catwalk last Saturday with lush, fluffy side-swept waves and a ’70s kind of beauty sensibility. The makeup, created by MAC Lead Artist Andrew Gallimore, was anchored with a lovely lilac eyeshadow and illuminating highlighter on the cheekbones and temples for anethereal goddess, Sissy-Spacek-meets-Jerry-Hall glamazon kind of beauty.
L’Oréal ProfessionnelLead Hair Artist James Pecis used L’Oréal’s new volume-boosting hero to create the disco-diva, “seven-tease” French twist bouffant: L’Oreal Paris‘s new Studio Line #TXT Texture Styling Volume Supersizing Spray. Pecis slicked the hair into a side swept twist, spritzing and brushing out the curls to create big, fabulous volume.
He’s a makeup artist’s makeup artist: Dick Page, world-renowned beautifier and artistic director at Shiseidohas dolled up faces at top global fashion weeks and most recently at Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Tess Giberson and one of our favourites, Band of Outsiders.
I caught up with Page backstage to find out what’s making him tick of late: his inspirations for S/S 14 and what it takes to make it in backstage beauty.
Music, fabrics, art, icons: which of these are inspiring you for the S/S 14 season? Dick Page: “There’s no abstract inspiration for the season for me because everything comes out of the clothes and collaborating with the designer. That said, I’m currently listening to a lot of old disco (Damn you, Daft Punk!) I’m also loving the James Turell exhibit at the Guggenheim.”
Your motto that has set you on a path to success? DP: “Get on with it!”
SS: What is the secret to succeeding in the beauty business? Is there one? DP: “Be good at what you do and be lucky.”
Best beauty idea you’ve ever had? DP: “To do as little as possible to a face, to see what restraint can achieve. Loud noises are easy to make, being quiet is much harder.”
What is one thing that helps give you an inspirational pick-me-up? DP: “The sense memory of different places. Right now it’s Dewees Island in South Carolina where I spent the summer with my husband James and our dog.”
First experience with beauty? Tell us about a moment or memory? DP: “Probably an old film, maybe I was trying to figure out how the blind lady (Audrey Hepburn) in Wait Until Dark had such flawless makeup and hair.”
Beauty product (skincare or makeup) you’d never live or leave the house without? DP: “A good sunscreen, right now I’m using one from Shiseido’s UNO men’s line which I get in Japan. It’s lightweight and not greasy at all. Bring it to America please!”
Name the beauty campaign or editorial spread (old or new) that’s inspired you the most. DP: “I was completely obsessed with the Tyen Christian Dior ads like these from the ’80s and would try to recreate the looks on my friends and sister’s faces. The looks I created were hilarious.”
Say goodbye to alphabet-marketing and forget BB and CC creams, the newest trend in foundations is a formula that’s lighter than air — and quite literally. Temptu, used its superior AIRpod Foundation airbrush system to create flawless skin for the season’s catwalkers and custom blended a duo-tone lip using its Hi-Def Red and Pink lipcolors.
Creatures of Comfort showcased a collection inspired by Capri in the 1960s, a carefree resort-feeling cache of loose-fitting cottons and dramatic-yet-functional sunhats. Lead artist Dani Fonseca, completed the look with well-groomed brows: created using its airbrush system (yes, airbrush eyebrows!) She used the AIRpod eyebrow kit and Temptu stencil for well-arched frames without the use of a single brush. Now that’s what I call makeup magic.
Fresh, easy, beachy makeup has been the beauty mantra for S/S 14 and at Jeremy Laing the ode to the beach-bound style hound continued with done-yet-undone makeup looks. The beauty was a perfect understated match for highlighter-bright separates, 1990s cuts and colors and black-and-white pinstripe lounge sets.
I chat with designer Jeremy Laing and MAC Lead Artist, Serge Hodonou for Stylesight, about the muses and inspirations behind this warm-weather makeup look.